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Sub 70 has spent years selling clubs that cost about half what the big brands charge, and wedges are where that pitch gets tested hardest. Drivers sell on numbers. Wedges sell on feel, and feel is the thing golfers are most skeptical about when the club comes from a direct-to-consumer brand they can't hit in a store. The SK Forged is Sub 70's answer for 2026, and it goes after that skepticism the obvious way: forge the head, shape it like a tour wedge, and let the price do the arguing.
The Versatile grind is the one most golfers should be looking at first. It's the middle option, with moderate bounce and enough relief on the heel and toe to let you open the face without the leading edge climbing off the ground. That combination covers the widest range of turf and swing types. If you take a shallow-to-neutral divot, play a mix of firm and soft courses through the season, and want one grind that handles a full shot from the fairway and a nipped pitch off a tight lie, this is the sensible pick.
What you're really buying is a wedge that behaves like a $180 wedge for well under that. Sub 70 orders direct from the factory and skips retail markup, tour staff, and TV money. You give up the ability to hit it before you buy and the resale value that a stamped brand name carries. For a club you'll grind down and replace in two or three seasons anyway, that's a trade a lot of golfers should be willing to make.
In short
The Sub 70 SK Forged Wedge (2026) is a versatile all-around wedge that suits most swings and turf. It carries a $150 MSRP.
Brand-new release
As this year's flagship the SK Forged Wedge holds at full MSRP with little price movement early on. Want the latest right now? Buy it. Chasing value? Prices usually soften 6 to 9 months after launch.
Based on release timing and this line's typical refresh cycle, not a live price quote.
Modeled from the $150 original MSRP and a current-year release.
Used market value
$100 - $135
Private sale, fair to like-new
Trade-in value
$60 - $95
What a shop typically pays
Get an exact quote
Estimate only, from a depreciation model, not a live quote. Search “Sub 70 SK Forged Wedge” on the sites above for the real number, which varies with condition, shaft, and demand.
Loft and bounce are nominal values. Actual specifications may vary.
Forging a wedge head does two things worth paying for. Grain structure ends up more consistent through the hitting area, which is where the softer, denser impact sensation comes from, and it gives the manufacturer tighter control over the sole geometry than casting does. On the SK Forged that shows up in the sole itself: the Versatile grind carries mid bounce through the middle of the sole with material taken off the heel and trailing edge, so the effective bounce drops when you rotate the face open. Square it up for a full shot and you get the full bounce back to keep the club from digging. Shaping is compact and traditional, with a fairly straight leading edge and a topline that doesn't look bulky behind the ball. Grooves are cut to conforming spec, which matters more than the marketing around them; every legal wedge in 2026 is working within the same volume and edge-radius limits, and fresh grooves on any of them beat worn grooves on a better-known one. Sub 70 offers the head in multiple finishes, and the raw option is worth considering if you like the look of a wedge that rusts in over a season, since the oxidation is cosmetic and doesn't change how it plays.
Versatile is the default for a reason and it fits most golfers. Go higher bounce if you take deep divots, play soft or wet courses most of the year, or fight the club digging in bunkers. Go lower bounce if your courses are firm and links-like, you pick the ball clean, or you like to lay the face wide open on tight lies. If you're unsure after reading that, take the Versatile. A grind that's slightly wrong for two rounds a year beats one that's wrong for twenty.
There's a real difference, but it's smaller than the ads suggest and it lives almost entirely in shots struck near the center. Off the toe or low on the face, forged and cast wedges feel roughly the same, which is to say bad. The bigger practical benefit of forging is manufacturing precision in the sole and the ability to bend the head for loft and lie without worrying about it cracking.
The heads come out of the same class of Asian forging houses that supply plenty of larger brands, so the raw hardware is closer than the price gap implies. Where you give something up is fitting infrastructure, launch monitor data behind each grind option, and the tour feedback loop that shapes sole designs over many iterations. If you already know your specs and your short game is more about technique than equipment, that gap costs you very little.
Work backward from your pitching wedge, which on most modern iron sets is stronger than it used to be. Check the actual loft, then space the wedges four to six degrees apart from there. A 44 degree pitching wedge points toward 50 and 54 and 58. A 46 points toward 52 and 56, with a 60 if you want a fourth. Ordering gaps by name instead of by number is how people end up with a 40 yard hole in their bag.
Get it if you don't mind rust and you prefer the glare reduction on sunny days. The oxidation is surface level and doesn't eat into groove edges on any timescale that matters for a wedge you'll replace in a few seasons. Skip it if you keep your clubs clean and want them to still look new in year two, or if you store your bag somewhere damp and don't want to wipe the head down after every round.
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